Horne Lake
14 posts, 6 voices
| john 167 posts | just finished a great route today with Eric and Mike. the route starts just to the left of the first 5.10 arete route you reach as you near boss wall. Our new route starts on the horizontal juniper tree and climbs though a roof at about 18m to rap rings. its 25m long, 12bolts? 5.11b/c not too sure. we don't have a name yet. also I did a route a few years ago with rene to the right of "Glory Days" on Boss wall. we called it ladybug 10+ all bolts. I'll post a few pics in the Comox Lake Area since there is no Horne section. |
| romperroom 10 posts | Another new route in the Amphitheater. "Addicted to War" - 5.11a , 6 bolts to sweet fixed stainless biners in the roof. Start just to the left of "You Enjoy Myself" up some sweet flow stone to a small roof. go left and ride the knob up and over the bulge. Clip the anchors off a sweet stalactite. The route was put up by myself and Jack PJ some time in late September. |
| john 167 posts | Ya talked to jack a few weeks ago. Really nice I like the more technical lower section, more face moves,. rather than a jug hull like on "you enjoy myself" I've only climbed twice in the amphitheater this year, finally got "warthog" last time. My first real 5.12 outside of Comox lake, I'm sheltered. you must be good at those horne route with all the gym climbing you must be doing? rene is trying Dinosaur. |
| romperroom 10 posts | I was up there yesterday also and found my missing chains up on the anchors of "the body" I had taken these chains up there last fall to put on a couple of the draws on Plastic Jesus and stashed them in the cave and they were gone by the next day. at least they were used and not stolen like I thought. |
| ErikB 2 posts | Hey there, if they were gold chains with black biners, I put those up there. I did not take them from a climb, I brought them specifically for that station, and would appreciate you sticking them back there maybe this spring. I have lots of chain and was planning to retrofit many of the existing anchors into sport anchors so no one will have to "borrow" anchors from any climbs. |
| romperroom 10 posts | I didn't take the chains dude. They are still on the anchor. The chains that I had were exactly the same with the same lucky biners. What a coincidence! Thanks for making the anchor better! |
| romperroom 10 posts | I have completed two and a half new pitches on the "stage right" at horn lake. The first one is a short second pitch to "Isis Eyes" it goes up and right past 3 bolts to a mantle and a belay on a large chirt band. This goes at 5.10 and is called "Aaron's New Eyes" I also put up a new pitch that shares the first half of "Isis Eyes" You climb up past the first 5 bolts on that climb and continue up and right for 6 more bolts instead of heading left to the anchors of "Isis Eyes" and "The Body" I think this pitch is 5.10c ish...This makes a much longer more aesthetic pitch that ends at the same anchors as "Aaron's New Eyes" You can rap from the new anchors with one 60m rope. The next pitch above this will be the classic for sure. This upper pitch weaves a line up and to the left of "Air club For Men" through some amazing features and sweet overhanging chirt bands! We are bolting on lead and have 5 bolts into that pitch already. When the rock stops seeping we will continue this epic journey to the top of the wall. The route will probably end up being 5.10 the whole way! |
| john 167 posts | sounds sweet! a new 5.10 line to the top. who are working with? I've only followed up the body once, years ago. thats a great area and the chirts are stellar. |
| romperroom 10 posts | It's been a few partners. This last time I was up there with Rob. It is hard to get people out who are motivated to go exploring and put routes up. I called you one day but you were working in Nanaimo or something. Yeah this route is sweet! You will like it for sure! I will do up some topos soon. |
| Maracas 1 post | Hi, I been going there since last Autumn, I probably know you from talking to people at the crag. I am willing to go out with you and as you say explore and put routes up. Has to be the weeekends though. I am a mexican guy from Monterrey, close to Potrero and El Salto. If interested contact me (miguel_maracas@hotmail.com) See you there anyway. |
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